Microdermabrasion + Peels - how much is too much?

I am such a HUGE believer in microdermabrasion that I’ve built nearly my entire facial practice around it. I find it to be an extremely effective treatment for the modest amount of time spent in the facial room without, in most cases, extended periods of downtime.

As prevalent as it is, it’s hard to believe that microdermabrasion has only been in the United States for 10 years. When I first got my machine 9+ years ago, I was one of a handful of aestheticians with their own machine. Machines were found in Doctor’s offices, and even then they were few and far between. Finding reference to microdermabrasion in a facial protocol was pretty much non existent leaving me to write my own. However, microdermabrasion is now so established that frequently it is the first step in a treatment protocol.

Microdermabrasion is a natural way to evenly and safely exfoliate the skin. It transforms the skin’s appearance leaving it radiant and silky smooth while helping to minimize fine lines, acne scarring, sun damage, and hyperpigmentation. Microdermabrasion utilizes corundum powder crystals, the industry standard for skin resurfacing, to finely resurface the superficial layers of the skin, reduce imperfections and restore the skin’s natural vitality. As an anti-aging treatment it improves fibroblast activity which in turn stimulates collagen growth, increasing cell renewal which slows as we age. Microdermabrasion is a progressive, non-aggressive procedure usually done in a series of 6 to 10 treatments every 10 to 14 days, followed by maintenance every 8 to 10 weeks.
Lately, the combination of microdermabrasion and chemicals peels is seen more often in aesthetic practices and physician offices. While I believe that this application has its place, I also caution clients regarding this practice for a few reasons;

First, over-processed skin is not healthy skin. Pairing chemical peels with microdermabrasion, a mechanical peel, can be a fairly aggressive procedure as they are both skin resurfacing methods. Used together, they can potentially cause serious damage as it may be more invasive. I have personally seen some great results while doing this procedure, but there are risks involved. Recovery time after a ‘double peel’ means more downtime and a longer more serious home care practice. Advanced training is essential in this field.

Second and more importantly, as the client you must be 100% compliant when filling out the client consultation form. Without a complete and honest understanding of what my client is using we may get a different, not altogether happy, end-result. Protocols must be strictly adhered to with any client on prescription topicals such as Retin A and Differin.

Post care is imperative with microdermabrasion. Since I am exfoliating the top layer of the epidermis (stratum corneum), hydration and sun protection are essential. Microdermabrasion improves the absorption and penetration of serums and moisturizers much more effectively. You truly get more bang for your buck with your facial products after a microderm treatment. Replenish your skin with professional post-resurfacing skincare products formulated with therapeutic levels of antioxidants, nourishing vitamins, and skin-calming and healing ingredients. Do your best to avoid direct sunlight and if you plan on being outdoors, make sure you wear an appropriate broad-spectrum sunscreen and hat. Additionally, I encourage my clients to open their car door and let the heat out before climbing in as heat can also do damage.

Enjoy my package of 3 microdermabrasion treatments including the face, neck and décolleté for $150 at Scosh Makeup and Skincare Studio in Scottsdale; http://www.scoshskincare.com/ma.php

Free Radicals? Antioxidants? What the heck?

You see the words Free Radical and Antioxidant on just about every beauty magazine cover these days. We use them in daily conversations, but do we really understand what they mean?

The serious explanation of Free Radicals defines them as atoms or molecules in your body with an unpaired electron…making them highly unstable. Because electrons normally come in pairs, the free radicals collide with other molecules in an attempt to steal an electron, and may start a chain reaction, wreaking havoc on your DNA and cells and leading to all kinds of diseases.

The not so serious explanation is to think of them as an oxygen molecule gone wrong, a Free Radical Pac-Man (Ms. Pac-Man?) on the attack.

The more free radicals to which we are exposed, such as sun, smog, and cigarette smoke, the greater the chance free radicals can tinker with our bodies natural DNA makeup. When that occurs our body's organs, tissues, and cells are weakened. Some weakening is a natural part of the aging process; however, the introduction of more and more free radicals breaks down our body's natural ability to fight back the aging process and escalates it prematurely. And remember, the largest organ of the body is our skin!

Antioxidants on the other hand, are free radical scavengers, neutralizing them before they get a chance to do harm to your body. They get their name from their ability to inhibit oxidation.

There are lots of different substances we call antioxidants, including many vitamins and minerals. Of course, not all antioxidants are created equal, and some of the most powerful, polyphenol antioxidants, are found in great abundance in pomegranate juice, cranberries, and grapes. Red wine, chocolate, and green teas are wonderful alternative sources.

So, kick off those Jimmy Choo’s, indulge in a glass of red wine with a piece of dark chocolate and chase those free radicals away.

The antioxidant and vitamin-rich Scosh from the vine system has been designed to target premature aging, sun damage, problematic and over-processed skins with therapeutic levels of anti-oxidants, nourishing vitamins, skin-calming and healing ingredients. This advanced easy-to-use system is suitable for all skin types; http://www.scoshskincare.com/s_from_the_vine.php

The 5 Minute Makeup - a few quick tips to get you out of the house a bit faster

Oops! So you spent a bit more time on You Tube that you thought and you’re still in your pj’s and late for work? Never fear, here’s a few quick steps to put you in your car and on the way to making big bucks!

1. Cleanse and moisturize – don’t forget to prep your skin with a moisturizer and sunscreen before you apply your makeup. If you didn’t wash your makeup off from the night before, yuck! I’ve said it before, your makeup will only look as good as your skin.
2. Foundation and concealer - if you’re using a powdered foundation apply concealer first, if needed - under eyes, around nose, blemishes – then apply your powdered foundation to help set the concealer. BUT if you use a liquid or cream foundation apply concealer second so you don’t wipe it away when applying your foundation. Also, look for a cream to powder liquid foundation so you can skip a step here by not having to set your foundation with powder. And if you’re one of the lucky ones who doesn’t need foundation but could use a bit of concealer, apply and blend where needed. I’m a big believer in using a large brush to apply powder foundation and either a sponge or foundation brush for liquid/cream foundation. The less you have to wash your hands the more time you’ll save. Just make sure to wash your brushes often.
3. Blush – make a big smile and sweep a light rose blush over the apples of your cheeks.
4. Brows - fill in brows with a shadow or pencil just a shade or two lighter than your brow hair color. This is an optional step. If you’re running out of time or have thick colored brows or wear bangs, you can opt out here.
5. Shadow - a quick layer or wash of shadow on the lids is perfect for day wear. Try one of the new pastels for spring.
6. Liner – if you’re not a shadow wearer or just love liner take this time to line the top lash line with shadow or pencil.
7. Mascara – brush through the top lashes once or twice, for a fresh look.
8. Lips - lip gloss, lip shine, lipstick. One tip I have about lipstick is that some sort of pink looks good on almost everyone; think rose, or sheer pink, or warm pink or plum. Lip liner not necessary here.

Save a step, save some time!

And don't forget it's all about the tools. Scosh makeup brushes are the finest on the market. They're all the brushes that I use in my prokit and on set. Take a look here; http://www.scoshskincare.com/b_face.php

2 simple steps for age-proofing your face

We all want the newest biggest baddest lotions, peels, injections, light therapies, whatever to keep our skin young and fresh, prolonging the inevitable.

Happily, I have 2 simple solutions to age-proof your face that is as close as your bathroom cabinet.

First - you can keep years off your face by just cleansing twice a day. It’s quick, it’s easy and it’s inexpensive. Cleansing is essential in maintaining beautiful, healthy skin. I get my fair share of clients on a Saturday morning with Friday night’s makeup on. And I know - we’re all busy, tired, stressed and overworked. But the damage caused by this practice is immediately identifiable; clogged pores, dull complexion, whiteheads, blackheads, premature aging, and acne.

Cleaning the skin is important as it will remove the dead cells from the surface. I prefer a gentle, water-soluble cleanser to avoid irritating the skin, not one that needs to be wiped away with a tissue or washcloth. Removing the dirt and grime from the day will give a beautiful glow to your skin. And face it, it feels so good when you crawl into bed right?

C’mon, 2 minutes at night, and you’re off to sleepy sleepy night night time.

Second - and you’ve heard this from me before, but the best defense against aging skin is a good offense…sunscreen. Changes we normally associate with aging are caused by a lifetime of exposure to the ultraviolet radiation in sunlight, which penetrates the skin and accelerates aging through the production of free radicals. Photoaged skin is wrinkled, hyperpigmented, and readily loses its tone and elasticity.

Beyond avoiding the sun and covering yourself head to toe in clothing, sunscreens and topical antioxidants are the best way to prevent photodamage. The American Cancer Society recommends the use of sunscreens, applied correctly, that have SPH 15 or higher for all day protection.

I should have called this article 3 simple steps for age-proofing your face because I am going to add one more tip - get a good nights sleep. They don’t call it beauty sleep for nothing. Having the right amount of sleep can actually help the skin regenerate.

Lastly - please remember, what you do away from me effects what happens when you’re with me. So, if you’re not washing your face twice a day and not using sunscreen everyday, my reparative facial treatments can only go so far. It’s like spending big bucks to have a facial and then buying your skincare at a discount store.

We’re in this together ladies, so you do your part and I’ll happily beautify America one face at a time!!

Scosh Cleanse is the top selling cleanser in the Studio. This cleansing gel is safe for all skin types, doesn't strip the skin and smells great. http://www.scoshskincare.com/s_cleansersscrubs.php

Spring into Beauty - nature inspired makeup for Spring ‘08

Nature really shows in this season’s makeup color story. With names like hyacinth and luminous lilac, you can see how eye shadow colors mimic the florals we see in this spring’s fashions. You’ll find vivid mattes and polished pastels which can be worn alone or blended with a pearlized pigment for extra dimension. New exciting formulas help create a silky smooth finish.

The runway trend for brows is the “natural” look. Brow Tints create beautiful true to life shades for fool proof brows. I am normally a huge fan of brow powder or shadow to fill in brows, but these new brow tints are like hair color for brows! Super easy and natural.

For a fresh and flawless complexion try the soft, smooth texture of a pressed Mineral Foundation Powder. Sweep these micronized high-pigment minerals over your skin for a finish that’s pure perfection.

Apply pink blush over the apples of your cheeks. Just enough to give a hint of radiance. Modern, chic and oh so girlie!

On everybody’s lips – lipstick. Lips are more color saturated than ever before, appearing fuller, smoother, irresistibly luxurious. Never fear, saturation doesn’t necessarily mean dark or heavy, just color. But if it seems like a little too much color from the tube, dab it on your lips with your finger. Pencil not needed. Formula is significant these days as so many new lipsticks have vitamins, peptides and sunscreen in them. How great is it to get color and treatment all in one!

So, go out and explore the colors of spring – and don’t forget to smell the roses along the way.

For more info on Kathy Krakora and her Scosh products and Scosh Makeup and Skincare Studio, please visit, www.scoshskincare.com

Mineral Makeup Tips and Tricks

Mineral Makeup is everywhere, so I thought I’d get a jump on the summer with some great application techniques. Whether you use the loose mineral powder in a jar, liquid mineral foundation or the pressed powder compact, these tips and tricks will make you glow for all of your holiday parties!

FACE

Less is more when applying loose Mineral Foundation powder as the minerals are pure concentrated pigment. Start with a very light application, applying thin layers using downward strokes, until desired coverage has been achieved.

Powder applies smoothly on dry skin best, so moisturizer must be completely absorbed. If moisturizer has NOT completely absorbed: apply thin layer of Mineral Rice Powder first, UNDER Mineral Foundation. If you apply Mineral Foundation before moisturizer has been absorbed, you may get a streaky or blotchy appearance.

‘Too shiny’ appearance means that the minerals have been ‘overworked’. Minerals actually polish when you over apply or apply too much. To knock down the shine, apply a layer of Mineral Rice Powder on top.

Customize your Foundation shade by blending two colors together or simply by adding a little Mineral Rice Powder to your Mineral Foundation powder.

A tinted moisturizer is fun and easy to create by adding and blending a bit of loose Mineral Foundation powder to your favorite moisturizer in the palm of your hand. Apply as you would a moisturizer.

Use immediately post-treatment by layering Mineral Rice Powder on first as a base, to create a beautiful velvety canvas, then apply Mineral Foundation in thin layers.

A Bronze appearance can be achieved by using a fan brush to apply a darker shade of Mineral Foundation to your cheeks, nose, forehead, shoulders, collar bone, décolleté or anywhere you want a sun kissed look.

Minimize glow or 'break through' shine or oiliness by applying Mineral Rice Powder on TOP of the Mineral Foundation as a translucent powder.

EYES

Loose Mineral Eye Shadow: may be used wet or dry
Dry: apply directly to the eye lid area with a blending brush for all over cover.
Wet: add a drop of water to your Blending brush, dip into shadow and quickly apply to lid. This application reduces creasing and stays all day! Perfect for brides or that special occasion.

Liner: Convert loose Mineral Shadow to a liner by adding a drop of water or Visine to an Angle brush, dip into an eye shadow color of your choice and draw a line above and/or below your eye. Cry proof!

Brows: Long-lasting brows are easy! Apply a shadow color of your choice with an Angle brush. The powder will adhere to the oils in your skin for staying power. Blend with a Spooly brush to get tiny hair-like effects.

LIPS

Create your own lip color by first layering a clear gloss on your lips, then add a mineral blush, shadow or foundation color(s) of your choice on top, add one more layer of gloss for depth. Staying power!

CHEEKS

Use a Fan Brush for a light dusting of blush on the cheeks, temples, jaw line, and tip of your nose. Remember mineral makeup is pure pigment so a delicate fan brush works best. You want to look like you’re flushing…NOT blushing!

Find mineral foundation, blush and eyeshadow on my website; http://www.scoshskincare.com/makeup.php

Why Mineral Makeup?

It seems there’s a Mineral Makeup infomercial on every station. Even the major cosmetic lines have gotten in the act realizing the beauty of a product made popular by spas and salons. Mineral Makeup is foundation, powder and sun protection all in one! It’s an advanced and uniquely formulated makeup made up of micronized high-pigment minerals in powdered form. Imparting flawless coverage and natural UV protection, it is easy to use and radiates a healthy natural glow that stays all day! If you aren’t familiar mineral makeup or haven’t tried it yet, here’s some additional info:

Acts as foundation, powder, and sun protection

Natural UV sun protection provided by Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide

Loose powder is free of talc, fillers, dyes, synthetic colors, fragrances and oils

Low allergy risk (as it does not contain the above sensitizers)

Ideal for all skin types, all-natural, non-comedogenic

Loose powder may be used immediately after facial treatments, as Zinc Oxide has anti-inflammatory properties calming the skin, ideal for Rosacea and acne

Light reflective powders draw attention away from lines (talc is responsible for accentuating lines)

Creates healthy looking glow to the skin, feels weightless and is non-drying.

Actually holds in moisture (talc absorbs moisture)

Because less is more it’s the 60 second makeup routine

Find all 4 formulations of Scosh mineral foundation - loose, pressed, liquid and tint on my website;http://www.scoshskincare.com/m_face.php

Skin Looking Dull? - change your routine for a fresher looking complexion

This time of year our skin is looks dry, lifeless, needing moisture. So, let's replenish and revitalize with a few good tips.

Keep a scrub in your shower for a daily exfoliation to help your serums and moisturizers work better

Winter is the best time to use an enlightening serum to even out and brighten your complexion while gradually fading discolorations

A vitamin C firming eye gel is absolutely necessary in the winter as we have a tendency not to wear our sunglasses as often. Vitamin C is photo protective against UVB/UVA rays

Replenish much needed moisture with a moisturizer loaded with Hyaluronic Acid, a protein found naturally in our bodies which acts as a water magnet, holding 1000 times its weight in water

And don't forget - always wear your sunscreen or my dogs will come and bite your ankles, all 3 of them!

I suggest these products: Enlighten Scrub, Enlighten Serum, Vibran C Eye Gel, Extreme Hydrate, and Protect spf 15, http://www.scoshskincare.com/skincare.php

And you only need a...Scosh!

BOO!!! Halloween Makeup FX

Black eyes, bruises and scabs are staples of any scary Halloween costume. Scottsdale-based Scosh® Makeup & Skincare Studio has Halloween How - to’s for creating the perfect ghoulish creature for you or your kids. Using key makeup products such as eye liner pencil, lipstick, eye lash glue and concealer along with common household items like instant coffee and raw sugar can help you create hauntingly horrific cuts, scabs and zits.

Putting a little inspired energy into making a creepy Halloween costume is a breeze with these easy step-by-step instructions.

Scabs, what you need:
Instant coffee
Raw sugar
Eyelash glue
Red lipstick

Layer a pea size amount of eyelash glue to the area of the face where you want your ‘scab’, i.e. lip area. Let sit for 15 seconds to get tacky. Mix raw sugar and coffee together and press into the top of the eye lash glue. If you use more sugar the fresher or more infected the ‘scab’ will look. If you use more coffee, the older or drier the ‘scab’. Let dry. Lift an edge, dab a bit of red lipstick under the edge of the ‘scab’ to peek out and look like blood.

Zits, what you need:
Eyelash glue, white/clear
Raw sugar
Red lipstick
Tweezers

Dab a bit of white eye lash glue on the face where you intend your desired effect, let sit 15 seconds to get tacky. Use a tweezers to place a granule of raw sugar on top. Cover with more eyelash glue, let dry. Dab a little red lipstick around the perimeter of the ‘zit’ to make it look infected.

Cuts, what you need:
Black eye liner pencil
Cream concealer, lighter than your skin tone
Red lipstick

Draw line on face where you intend your desired effect. Layer red lipstick on top of line, no wider than the black line, but definitely thicker. The thicker the lipstick on top of your ‘cut’ the fresher the effect. Apply concealer close to the ‘cut’ on each side of the ‘cut’ to show swelling.

You can add a ‘scab’ anywhere along your cut to give even more dimension.

Enjoy and have a howlingly fun Halloween!

Visit my web site for a list of current and seasonal makeup classes; http://www.scoshskincare.com/scosh_school.php

Lush Red Lips for Fall - tips for the perfect pout

As I scoured the news for all things fashion I discovered two things for fall '07 ... shoulder pads and red lipstick! As a makeup artist it was yippee skippee for the red lipstick. But personally? Not so much. I mean really, I haven't worn red lips since the last time we wore shoulder pads.

How in the heck am I going to pull this one off? We've been wearing gloss forever. And red isn't as easy as it sounds. There are a plethora of blue reds, orange reds, brown reds and plum reds to choose from. So I thought I'd break it down to understand the color red a bit better.

· Blue reds are my favorite. These are user-friendly reds with the added bonus that they make your teeth look whiter.
· Orange reds are tough. This particular red family has a tendency to make your smile look yellow. But never say never because I have a few red-headed clients who wear a red with a slight gold shimmer and it works beautifully for them.
· Brown reds are better left to younger faces. These shades can age you with a mere swipe of the tube.
· Plum reds are very similar to the blue reds, usually a deeper hue with just a bit more blue.

The modern approach to the perfect red pout is in the texture. If the idea of going red scares you, try a gloss or sheer lipstick formula. But if you're ready to dive in, a creamy, velvety or satin formula is just what the makeup artist ordered. Tip: If you're going to use a lip pencil, it's always been my practice to match the lip pencil to your lip color. So when your lipstick wears away, you won't have that telltale red line around your lips.

There are a few things to remember if you're going to make this luscious lip statement. First, you need to keep your eyes somewhat bare. Heavily shadowed eyes are a no-no here. Think Christina Aguilera, Gwen Stefani or Marilyn Monroe with the strong red mouth and a perfectly lined eye, touch of mascara or perhaps light-weight lashes. Second, to pull off this look, cheeks need to be kept sheer or else we're right back to the 80's and Dynasty. I prefer a more matte approach on the cheeks.

Now about those shoulder pads....

Visit my website for great Scosh makeup and skincare products; http://www.scoshskincare.com/

About Scosh and Kathy

Located in the heart of Scottsdale, Scosh Makeup Studio boasts the Valley’s only private studio dedicated to makeup workshops. Get together with your friends, make it a “girl’s day out” and see why Phoenix Magazine voted Scosh Makeup Studio Best of the Valley with this one-of-a-kind experience. Scosh School makeup workshops are for everyone - resort guests, private parties, corporate incentives, birthday parties, bridal parties, any occasion.

As a former Hollywood makeup artist, I offer a fun and friendly atmosphere for affordable makeup workshop services that will leave your guest’s skin glowing and their heart happy. Watch while I demonstrate easy-to-use application methods while you learn and practice on yourself with the newest Scosh colors, makeup and brushes. Then celebrate with a 50% discount on ALL Scosh products the day of class!

Classes currently available include: Makeup 101, Boomers in Bloom, Bridal Beauty - your red carpet day, and Just Eyes.

As a professional makeup artist, and having taught makeup all over the US, Japan and Australia, I bring more than 20 years of knowledge and experience to the faces of my clients. I received advanced training in therapeutic cosmetics and trained and worked with Hollywood makeup artists. My bio includes television, film, high fashion and print media. Over the years, I developed a client list including ABC, NBC, MTV, VH1, BBC, Food Network, Banana Republic, Nautica, Oxygen Magazine, America West Airlines, Motorola, Kodak, Arizona Lottery, Arizona Diamondbacks and was personal makeup artist to Alice Cooper. I also served as a featured artist for MAC and as a market artist for Chanel.

I am the Founder and President of Corrective Aesthetics, Inc., Scosh and owner of Scosh Makeup and Skincare Studio in Scottsdale, Ariz.

Scosh School Makeup Workshops

As a Hollywood freelance makeup artist I frequently get requests for makeup tips, tricks and techniques. Having taught makeup all over the US, Japan and Australia I decided it was time to open up my own makeup and skincare studio located in Scottsdale.

Scosh Makeup and Skincare is the original and only makeup studio in Arizona dedicated to makeup classes. Learn how to pick the right makeup shades and formulations, how to do a smoky eye or apply lashes, enhance and define your features, and learn what brushes work best where. I demonstrate easy-to-use application methods while you learn and practice on yourself with the newest Scosh colors, makeup and brushes.

Get together with your friends and make it a “girl’s day or girl's night out”! Then celebrate with a 50% discount on ALL Scosh Makeup and Skincare products after class!!

Makeup 101
Learn to create that perfect canvas with this basic makeup class and discover how to transform your new polished day look to evening glam. Become skilled at choosing a foundation, blush, shadow and lipstick in colors that show off you, not what you’re wearing. You’ll also discover easy-to-use application techniques with the correct tools to conceal flaws, balance your eyes, lips and cheeks, and shape your brows perfectly every time.

Just Eyes!
From the basics to the hottest trends, this workshop shows you how to accentuate the color and shape of your eyes and create different eye looks; all while mastering brows, shadow, eyeliner, and lashes. Then watch how easy it is to achieve the sexy, smoky eye like a professional.

Boomers in Bloom
OK, we feel 25 but our driver’s license says otherwise! This workshop shows you how to enhance and define to bring out the new beautiful you. Become inspired!!

Bridal
Your wedding is your red carpet moment, make it count! Elegance is key. Learn the dos and don’ts to ensure your fairytale starts with a radiant flawless face.

$50 per person, class size 2 – 6, duration approx. 2- 3 hours unless otherwise stated.

Click here for a calendar of classes on my website,
http://www.scoshskincare.com/
http://www.scoshskincare.com/scosh_school.php

Scosh Makeup and Skincare Studio
4434 N. Civic Center Plaza, suite 102
Scottsdale, AZ 85251
480 970.5454