New Year Skincare Resolution

As we inch ever closer to the New Year I wanted to take a moment to remind all of my clients about the importance of quality home-care as a follow up to any Scosh treatment. Proper home-care products are a critical part of both achieving and maintaining the maximum results from any treatment you receive. Simply put, you are protecting your investment. And keep in mind, what you do away from me affects what happens when you are with me.

I expect my clients to experiment with other skincare brands, but please remember – the person behind the department store counter was hired because they can sell, NOT because they know anything about your skin. I mean really, are you going to trust your skin to part-time Christmas help?

Scosh Skincare’s therapeutic levels of ingredients, antioxidants and vitamins have been formulated specifically for post-treatment use, with many options for different skin needs. In fact I was extolling the virtues of ingredients such as resveratrol, peptides, ceramides, and antioxidants 10 years ago, long before they became the 'hot topics' they are today. I stay current with new formulas and ingredients by delving into research, asking questions, attending trade shows, trying new products, and interviewing new labs constantly.

My goal in the treatment room has always been to provide the most cost effective and time efficient options. I positioned my business model years ago to give clients ‘more bang for their buck’ by tailoring each treatment to my client's specific skin care needs. I don’t give shoulder massages, I don’t turn on the steam and then walk out of the treatment room. What I do is fix your skin. Period. It's all about personalizing the process, because just like skincare, not every treatment is for everyone. That said, designing an appropriate skincare protocol to follow post-treatment is also critical.

I do believe that I have an outstanding array of extremely effective Scosh products available for post-treatment care. I'm always happy to do a skincare consultation anytime to help you find a great routine to maximize the results of your treatment. So, let’s get together and review your skincare protocol for a new, more healthy looking you.

Next month I’m going to address basic skin care protocols for different skin types. Until then – wash your face twice a day and sunscreen sunscreen sunscreen (YES, even in winter!)

Pumpkin - is it a Peel or what?

There seems to be some confusion regarding all the autumn-inspired pumpkin peels out there, so I thought I’d try to clear up any confusion.

I love using pumpkin as a facial treatment. Pumpkin enzymes act like Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA’s), without the drying effects of an AHA glycolic peel, for instance. In other words, you get great cell turnover, accelerated exfoliation, and powerful nutrients and antioxidants to scavenge those pesky free-radicals – resulting in smoother, younger looking skin.

A “gentle exfoliation” is one that will usually not result in a visible sloughing of dead skin. However, results can be achieved from a physical exfoliant such as a light microdermabrasion, a scrub, or a chemical exfoliant - usually 5% AHA or less. These will diminish fine lines, but the results will not last as long as a medium to deep peel.

A “peel” would be a medium to deep exfoliation and will usually result in a visible sloughing of dead skin cells. Depending on skin type, the exfoliation process can be a light flaking of the skin, or a deeper “sheeting” of the skin, where large patches of dead cells will be shed. Peels can be performed through physical exfoliation (microdermabrasion) or chemical peels (higher concentrations of AHA 10%+, BHA, TCAs, Jessners, etc.), or a combination of the two.

We all react differently to products; what may be a light exfoliation to you could be a “peel” on someone else. In addition, if you do not peel or sheet it doesn’t mean something isn’t happening at the cellular level, where it counts.

Price isn’t necessarily your barometer either. Scosh Studio currently offers a 30 minute - 10% Pumpkin Peel for $35, Pumpkin Peel.

So, delight your senses and enjoy the bounty of this time of year!

Eclectic Beauty for Fall '09

PULSE BEAUTY '09

FACE: Apply Scosh Liquid Mineral Powder Foundation or Scosh Pressed Mineral Powder in appropriate shade to skin with Foundation Brush, sponge or Kabuki Brush.

EYES: Sweep Scosh Lingerie shadow all over the eye, from lashes to the brow. Apply Opal all over lid, from lashes to crease. Apply Titanium in the crease and blend outward. Apply Volcanic Ash to the outer corner and under eye as a liner, as desired.

Define eyes with Scosh LiquiLiner in Anisette, starting at the inner corner of the eye apply along the entire lash line. Wing liner at outer corner if desired.

For voluminous lashes, apply Scosh Sensitive Eyes Mascara in Black from the outer corner to the inner corner, sweeping evenly from root to tip.

Complete the look with bold arched brows by applying Scosh Brow Tint in the appropriate shade to match hair color.

CHEEKS: Blend Scosh Mineral Blush in Rose Marble onto apples of cheeks.

LIPS: Apply Liptoxyl in Starlet to center of lips for a fuller-appearing pout.

RELATED PRODUCTS: Scosh Retexturizing Face Primer, Shadow Magnet, Pro Lip Primer

Get the Look(s) for fall '09

BARELY THERE '09

How to be seen this season? In glowing terms, naturally, with radiance-making makeup that takes luminosity to a new level of luxe. A vision that came across on the catwalks with easy-but-dressed fashions designed in elegant fabrics and iridescent jewel tones.

FACE: Apply Scosh Liquid Mineral Powder Foundation or Scosh Pressed Mineral Powder in an appropriate shade, to skin with Foundation Brush, sponge or Kabuki Brush.

EYES: Sweep Scosh Canary Diamond shadow all over the eye, from lashes to the brow. Apply Peach Quartz all over lid, from lashes to crease. Apply Sunstone in the crease and blend outward. Apply Cinnamon Stone to the outer corner, and under eye as a liner as desired.

Define eyes with Scosh LiquiLiner in Choc Martini, starting at the inner corner of the eye apply along the entire lash line.

For voluminous lashes, apply Scosh Sensitive Eyes Mascara in Black from the outer corner to the inner corner, sweeping evenly from root to tip.

Complete the look with classically arched brows by applying Scosh Brow Tint in the appropriate shade to match hair color.

CHEEKS: Blend Scosh Mineral Blush in Sparkling Rose onto apples of cheeks.

LIPS: For a long-lasting effect, apply Scosh Automatic Longlasting Lip Pencil in Buff to lip line and blend inward toward the center of the lips. Glide Lipshine in Pure onto lips. Apply Liptoxyl in Contessa to center of lips for a fuller-appearing pout.

RELATED PRODUCTS: Scosh Retexturizing Face Primer, Shadow Magnet, Pro Lip Primer

Summer looks are soft and bold!

This season’s sheer sexy pastels and intense global brights are everywhere! Feminine yet powerful. The key to following this summer’s makeup trend is to remember that a little bit goes a long way. A good rule of thumb for all seasonal trends is to try one at a time by focusing on one feature at a time.

Sweep a sheer shadow over the lid, or line your eyes with a fabulous new liquid liner color; wing it, smudge it, glam it - liner is huge this season! If you’re going to go dramatic; gold and gilded is all the rage - think, golden goddess! Add a hint of fresh coral to the cheeks and you’re right on trend. Lipsticks are back so, polish off your new look with a pale, nude lip color.

I’ve add a few more tips, tricks and techniques to create and keep that summer-fun look. Enjoy!

Prep, treat, and prime!
In other words, flawless skin is always in so remember; cleanse, apply antioxidant serum, spf moisturizer, and foundation primer. Primers can take makeup from so-so to summer sensational! The right primer can help makeup stay all day, minimize skin flaws, reduce shine, and diminish the appearance of fine lines while refining skin texture.

Ready, set, glow!
Even out skin tone with a Mineral Tinted Moisturizer for a light, summer look with additional spf.
Flush with a Cream Blush, warmed by the fingers and blended into the apples of the cheeks.
Enhance soft, natural brows with Brow Powder instead of brow pencil for long-lasting power.
Define eyes with a sheer shadow over Scosh Shadow Magnet Primer to hold all day. If you are going to make a bold eye color choice, remember to balance the rest of the face by keeping it soft and neutral.
Pout and paint your lips with a nude Lipstick or barely-there Lip gloss. The super shiny look is oh-so last season! (Thank goodness, I always thought that people looked like they were drooling!)
- Have a lip color from last season that you just love? Mix it with a bit of lip balm for sheer texture and color.

It is summer and we are in Arizona so, if you know you’re going to get ‘dewy’, set your makeup with an Oil-blotting Powder. And if you’re a Bronzer kind of girl, try the new golden-glow bronzers, lightly applied to all the places the sun kisses - cheeks, forehead, nose, and chin.

Remember to put your Scosh Blotting Papers in your purse and you can boldly go…and have some summer fun!

To learn more makeup tricks and techniques, join me at Scosh Makeup & Skincare Studio for Scosh School Makeup Workshops, an extraordinary place for a girl’s day out! All of the products listed above and more are available at Scosh Makeup and Skincare Studio, Scottsdale.

Organic Skincare

I’ve gotten a few questions about Organic Skincare lately so, I thought I would do some research.

Did you know that The US Food and Drug Administration, FDA, does not require testing or certification of any beauty products? (re: last month’s blog about Mascara ads) Therefore, companies have more freedom when choosing ingredients, and those ingredients are not necessarily good for you.

Some products labeled organic by the USDA are more organic than others are. The USDA has set up different categories of organic products; a product that is made with 95% or more organic ingredients receives a USDA organic symbol, while a product made with more than 70% organic ingredients will say on the label that it is “made with organic ingredients.”

However, how many of those organic products are in your moisturizer? Not all organic products are equal. Products that claim to be organic may still contain ingredients that could cause a breakout, especially if you suffer from allergies. Think botanicals. They may smell nice but if you have allergies, buyer beware!

So when you are looking at organic skincare ask yourself organic what, organic how much?

How do Scosh products fit into all of this? Scosh Skincare is the cutting edge of cosmeceutical skin care. The effectiveness of the ingredients used depends on whether they are chirally correct. ‘kī-rul’ is Greek for hands. Every molecule found in nature is chiral. This is the delivery system. Chiral molecules are identical mirror images of each other, meaning they have a "left" and a "right" chemical orientation, much like our hands - think gloves. The skin is comprised of millions of chiral receptors, which dictate instructions to the cells. Only through receptors can the body access nutrients, drugs, and locally applied products. Applying the wrong chiral twin to the skin results in either poor response, irritation, or no effectiveness at all. For a product to be optimally effective, it must be received by a specific receptor, therefore chirally correct.

The Scosh philosophy is all about rejuvenating, repairing, and refining stressed, over-processed, dehydrated and problematic skin. Scosh Skincare has been formulated to be free from preservatives, synthetic colors, fragrances, cruelty free, and packaged in recyclable packaging.

Plastic Lashes? Yikes!

OK, so what’s the deal with all of these mascara print and TV ads lately? Do they really think we believe that those false eyelashes are mascara? It’s beyond exaggeration!

Some of the pictures are completely ridiculous. Honestly, who really wants their lashes to look like those uber theatrical plastic lashes I use to make up witches for Halloween? Even eyelash extensions don’t look this silly.

I was told many years ago, that it’s a common industry practice for advertisers, as long as they use the item they are advertising somewhere on the body. One makeup artist said the foundation she used on a models face in a foundation shoot wasn’t what was being advertised, but came from her kit instead. The advertised foundation however, was dabbed behind the ear so they could say they used it or the model was wearing it.

I did read that one mass market manufacturer was taken to task for this tactic and now must place a disclaimer in their ads.

You know I love makeup and skincare as much as the next girl but don’t even get me started on 12 year olds advertising eye cream or the hair-color-in-a-box celebrities!

My Chemical Peel Experience

A tale of do as I say, NOT as I do!

Day 1, Monday
My friend Diane, an aesthetic instructor, and I decided an anti-aging TCA Peel would be best for my skin. Perfect for hydrating my dry, sun damaged, peri-menopausal skin. This is not ‘your mother’s’ aggressive, 'under home-arrest', type peel. It is a kinder, gentler regeneration of new cells at a faster rate than what would normally occur as an adult.

First, she cleansed my skin, twice. Then prepped my skin with a lactic toner, asking if I felt any tingling on a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being worst. I felt a slight sensation, maybe a 1 or 2. We waited for the toner to dry and then started with 1 layer of Ultra Peel I, again asking my sensation on a 1 to 10 scale; I felt about a 3. We waited 3 minutes and she applied another layer, same 1 to 10 scale question; I felt slightly more tingling - about a 4. Waiting 3 more minutes, we decided to go for one more layer; 1 to 10 scale came in at about a 5 and that was it. After 3 minutes, she finished the peel off with a layer of Ultra II – a retinol treatment booster, then applied sunscreen and I was finished. My face looked like I used a bronzer and felt slightly tingly and tight, although not uncomfortable. The entire process took about 20 minutes, we were finished by noon. When I left for home I made sure to let the heat out of my car before jumping in, heat can do damage to the skin as well.

This peel should be kept on for at least 5 hours to let the skin process before removing and applying a hydrating balm (only). OR you can leave it on over night. I removed it at 5 hours with Scosh Cleanse and tepid water, patted dry, and generously applied a balm - looked pretty greasy!

Day 2, Tuesday
My skin felt very tight the next morning and I looked a bit puffy. No flaking or peeling. I washed my face with Scosh Cleanse and tepid water at the sink, patted dry and generously applied a balm and sunscreen. Kept the shower spray off my face, carefully washing and rinsing my hair in a tepid shower. Do NOT put your face under the warm shower spray for 5 days post. If in fact, if you can avoid washing your hair on day 2 even better.

Had clients all day so I also applied Scosh Oil Blotting Powder to control shine.

About 5 pm Tuesday (30 hours post peel), I started to feel like I was beginning to peel/ flake around the peri-oral area. Apparently, it is normal for this part of the peel to ‘release’ first as we use our mouth and nose so much throughout the day.

I washed my face at the sink that evening with Scosh Cleanse, patted dry and noticed that I was beginning to ‘sheet’. Rather large pieces of skin were peeling from the mouth, nasal, and cheek areas. Tempting as it was I did NOT peel, tug, or pull at these areas. Hyperpigmentation may result, damaging the skin. So, I applied more balm which made my face look greasy but not ‘peely’.

Day 3, Wednesday
I was sheeting and flaking in the morning. Washed my face with Scosh Cleanse and tepid water at the sink, patted dry and noticed flakes of skin in the wash bowl. Hmmm, kinda weird but funny at the same time! Generously applied balm and sunscreen. Lots of flaking throughout the day.

Home office day, so no powder. Just balm and sunscreen.

Washed my face at the sink with Scosh Cleanse and tepid water in the evening, patted dry, applying a generous amount of balm to stay hydrated.

Day 4, Thursday
I was surprised at how much of the flaking/peeling was gone. Except for the flaking on my forehead, eyebrows, and along the hairline my skin looked clear, tight, and nice.

Did the usual Scosh Cleanse, tried a serum this morning but if felt a bit tingly so I backed off. If it feels tingly, your skin is telling you something. Applied generous amounts of balm and sunscreen.

Put some oil blotting powder on and met my friend Dawn later that afternoon. She was surprised at the clarity of my skin just 3 days post peel.

Day 5, Friday
Then this is where I got cocky, making a HUGE mistake. Pay attention here, as it’s a do as I say NOT as I do moment.

I jumped in the shower without Scosh Cleanse. I decided to use a sample gel cleanser with itty bitty scrubbies in it. I thought would be fairly benign and I really wanted to get the flaking around my hairline. Big Big BIG mistake! I got out of the shower and my face was bright red, and felt warm to the touch. Scared the living heck out of me. I was completely panic stricken calling Diane and my friend Tracy telling them what a bonehead move I had just made and what the heck happened to my skin?

I had clients that morning, so I put on lots of balm and sunscreen, and oil blotting powder and headed off to the studio still feeling warm and looking bright red.

Diane called and talked me down, telling me to look at the ingredient list. Sure enough, half way down the list there it was…Retinyl Palmitate – Retin A – Vitamin A. Under normal circumstances a great cell turnover ingredient, in this case TOO much TOO soon (Maybe I should have made myself fill out the Chemical Peel Consultation Form.). About 5 hours later my skin started to calm down and all turned out OK. My skin looks and feels great and I’m very happy with the results.

BUT this is the perfect example of why you must follow the take home instructions, and use the post-skin care kit + shea butter balm for at least 10 days, twice a day, everyday post peel. Scrubs are NOT allowed no matter how much the flaking makes you crazy. It can absolutely do damage by hyperpigmenting the skin. I know better and I still was non-compliant. Do not follow my example!

Day 6 – 13
Skin looks terrific, with the hairline flakes taking the longest to release. About day 9 I felt really dry and started to flake ever so slightly again on my cheeks and forehead. Kind of a second peel it seemed. Hydrate made it unnoticeable and it was gone by day 11 leaving my skin very soft yet firm.

Day 14
I did a fruit enzyme peel as my final 3 part peel program. My skin is glowing! I’m really happy with the results.

Basic Skincare Protocol

Easy Steps to Anti-aging Skin care

Morning:
First > Cleanse or Vibran C Cleansing Scrub
Second > apply Peptoxyl Radiance Serum over entire face
Third > gently apply Peptoxyl Eye Treatment around both eyes from the outside of the eyes inward toward the nose in circular motions. (Any left over, apply to lips and neck)
Fourth > Peptoxyl Wrinkle Relaxing Cream moisturizer, over entire face, neck and decollette
Fifth > the most most important anti-aging product of all, Peptoxyl Protection spf 30 over entire face and neck. Don't forget the V-neck T-shirt area.
Last > be sure to take care of your lips with Liptoxyl, plumping, soothing and luscious!

Evening:
First > Cleanse or Vibran C Cleansing Scrub
Second > apply Peptoxyl Radiance Serum over entire face
Third > gently apply Peptoxyl Eye Treatment around both eyes from the outside of the eyes inward toward the nose in circular motions. (Any left over? Apply to lips and neck)
Fourth > Peptoxyl Wrinkle Relaxing Cream moisturizer, over entire face, neck and decollette
Fifth > plump your lips with Liptoxyl, soothing and luscious!