Thursday, April 3, 2008

Microdermabrasion + Peels - how much is too much?


I am such a HUGE believer in microdermabrasion that I’ve built nearly my entire facial practice around it. I find it to be an extremely effective treatment for the modest amount of time spent in the facial room without, in most cases, extended periods of downtime.

As prevalent as it is, it’s hard to believe that microdermabrasion has only been in the United States for 10 years. When I first got my machine 9+ years ago, I was one of a handful of aestheticians with their own machine. Machines were found in Doctor’s offices, and even then they were few and far between. Finding reference to microdermabrasion in a facial protocol was pretty much non existent leaving me to write my own. However, microdermabrasion is now so established that frequently it is the first step in a treatment protocol.


Microdermabrasion is a natural way to evenly and safely exfoliate the skin. It transforms the skin’s appearance leaving it radiant and silky smooth while helping to minimize fine lines, acne scarring, sun damage, and hyperpigmentation. Microdermabrasion utilizes corundum powder crystals, the industry standard for skin resurfacing, to finely resurface the superficial layers of the skin, reduce imperfections and restore the skin’s natural vitality. As an anti-aging treatment it improves fibroblast activity which in turn stimulates collagen growth, increasing cell renewal which slows as we age. Microdermabrasion is a progressive, non-aggressive procedure usually done in a series of 6 to 10 treatments every 10 to 14 days, followed by maintenance every 8 to 10 weeks.
Lately, the combination of microdermabrasion and chemicals peels is seen more often in aesthetic practices and physician offices. While I believe that this application has its place, I also caution clients regarding this practice for a few reasons;

First, over-processed skin is not healthy skin. Pairing chemical peels with microdermabrasion, a mechanical peel, can be a fairly aggressive procedure as they are both skin resurfacing methods. Used together, they can potentially cause serious damage as it may be more invasive. I have personally seen some great results while doing this procedure, but there are risks involved. Recovery time after a ‘double peel’ means more downtime and a longer more serious home care practice. Advanced training is essential in this field.

Second and more importantly, as the client you must be 100% compliant when filling out the client consultation form. Without a complete and honest understanding of what my client is using we may get a different, not altogether happy, end-result. Protocols must be strictly adhered to with any client on prescription topicals such as Retin A and Differin.

Post care is imperative with microdermabrasion. Since I am exfoliating the top layer of the epidermis (stratum corneum), hydration and sun protection are essential. Microdermabrasion improves the absorption and penetration of serums and moisturizers much more effectively. You truly get more bang for your buck with your facial products after a microderm treatment. Replenish your skin with professional post-resurfacing skincare products formulated with therapeutic levels of antioxidants, nourishing vitamins, and skin-calming and healing ingredients. Do your best to avoid direct sunlight and if you plan on being outdoors, make sure you wear an appropriate broad-spectrum sunscreen and hat. Additionally, I encourage my clients to open their car door and let the heat out before climbing in as heat can also do damage.

Enjoy my package of 3 microdermabrasion treatments including the face, neck and décolleté for $150 at Scosh Makeup and Skincare Studio in Scottsdale; http://www.scoshskincare.com/ma.php

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