How To Read a Label

One thing that amazes me is how some companies will spotlight a single ingredient in a product, but when you take a look at the ingredient label you will find that the product barely contains any of that ingredient.

I encourage all of my clients to be an informed consumer and read the ingredient label! Ingredients are listed in descending order of quantity just like a food label. If the product’s star ingredient is listed toward the bottom of the list, you know it is barely present in any significant amount (particularly if it is listed after the parabens and preservatives). Also, did you ever think about the fact that the total ingredients in a product can only add up to 100%? If you see an ingredient list a mile long, how much of any one ingredient can possibly be in there? Not much.

When I was researching products a year or so ago I came across the Peptoxyl line that I now carry at Scosh Studio. One of the things that really impressed me was the formulations. The ingredient lists are short and to the point. And unlike a lot of peptide products I’ve tried, they actually do contain a significant amount of peptides, and other beneficial ingredients. One of my favorites is the Peptoxyl Radiance Serum. This water-like serum has many beneficial ingredients, but two key ingredients are going to have the most impact. Aminopropyl Kojyl Phosphate is the 2nd ingredient in the serum, just after water. How often do you see the star ingredient in any product as the 2nd ingredient on the label? Rarely! It is a derivative of the natural skin lightening agent kojic acid and can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, diminishes age spots and help collagen synthesis. Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate is the 4th ingredient in the Peptoxyl Radiance Serum. It activates skin cell regeneration by stimulating the natural shedding process of the skin, leading to a gentle peeling.

Another favorite peptide product is Scosh Peptoxyl Eye Treatment. This intense treatment for the eye area increases micro-circulation, decreases puffiness, strengthens capillary walls to reduce under eye darkness and reinforces the structure and flexibility of collagen and elastin for firmer, more resilient skin. Treat your self and enjoy a 20% savings thru April 30, 2010!

So, make sure you're doing your homework and if you need some crib notes, I have a glossary of ingredients on my website: http://www.scoshskincare.com/glossary.htm.

Why Resveratrol?

Everywhere I turn the past few months I have come across yet another skincare company launching a new cream or serum based on the antioxidant ingredient resveratrol. They praise resveratrol as a new, exciting breakthrough for anti-aging skincare. While I agree that resveratrol is a great skincare ingredient, it’s hardly new. I've been using resveratrol for over 12 years in my skincare and in the treatment room.

Present in grapes (and red wine), resveratrol is not only a potent antioxidant, but it pulls double duty as a great anti-inflammatory agent. Antioxidants defend us against free radical damage. Free radicals attack our skin and break down skin’s support structure. Want a truly “firming” moisturizer? Then you want a moisturizer loaded with antioxidants to protect you from exposure to free radicals that can cause skin damage over time like loss of elasticity. Recent studies also indicate that reducing inflammation on the skin is also a critical step to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Inflammation isn’t just about the redness or irritation you can see. Inflammation can also occur but it can be microscopic and not visible to the naked eye. Anti-inflammatory ingredients are a great addition to your skincare routine.

Always pair your antioxidants with the daily use of a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or greater. Antioxidants will enhance the effects of your sunscreen, but they absolutely do not replace your need to wear sunscreen every single day.

For years, I have used a cream with resveratrol after performing a peel or microderm treatment. At the request of my clients, I recently started offering this product for purchase, which I have long referred to as my “Antioxidant Cream”. It was an instant hit and because everyone loves it so I'm now offering it in a convenient new package, with a new name - Comfort Cream! Without feeling greasy or heavy Comfort Cream provides substantial moisture from shea butter and jojoba oil while protecting the skin’s natural moisture barrier with Ceramides. In addition to resveratrol, additional anti-oxidants are on hand including Vitamin C, Giant Knotweed and Turmeric. Comfort Cream smells absolutely divine with a light, all-natural fragrance from peach wine and vanilla extracts. It’s great for all skin types, particularly dry, dehydrated or skin that has recently had a peel or microdermabrasion.

I have had a hard time keeping the Comfort Cream in stock so I’ve not yet offered it for purchase on my website. If you are interested, Comfort Cream is available in a 1oz size for $27 at Scosh Studios. As with all Scosh products, a little goes a long way – All you need is a Scosh!

For more information, call Scosh at 480.970.5454 or email info@scoshksincare.com

Tips To Avoiding & Hydrating Dry Skin

The dry desert air can contribute to a lot of skincare concerns, but especially impacts those of us with dry skin. There are a host of things you can do to aid dry skin year round, and they go well beyond just using more moisturizer.

Skincare is important, but there are a few non skincare tips that can dramatically aid dry skin;

- Keep yourself hydrated by drinking more water. Don’t stress yourself out either trying to carry around some enormous bottle of water all day. Drink a glass of water with each meal and fit in an extra glass here and there when you can.

- Consider buying an inexpensive humidifier. Elevating the moisture level in the air at night while you sleep will help keep your skin hydrated all day.

- Avoid bringing your skin in contact with really hot water. Hot water dehydrates your skin. Avoid long, hot showers and baths, and use lukewarm or tepid water to cleanse your face.

There are some basic rules that apply to both skin and body care products that can help dry skin;

- Use a gentle cleanser that does not strip your skin of it’s natural oils and lipids. And use a gentle, non aggressive scrub twice weekly. Scosh Cleanse and Papaya Exfoliating Enzyme Scrub.

- Avoid toners or serums with drying alcohols like “SD alcohol“ or “denatured alcohol“. Instead use a toner with great water binding ingredients like glycerin and skin boosting antioxidants.

- Use a broad spectrum (UVA/UVB) sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or greater daily. Sun damage will absolutely contribute to how your skin looks and feels. Scosh Protect SPF 15 and Peptoxyl Protection SPF 30

- Look for water binding ingredients in your serums and moisturizers to boost your skins ability to retain moisture. Ingredients like glycerin, ceramides, hyaluronic acid or sodium hyaluronate, collagen, elastin, algae, sodium PCA and phospholipids. Scosh C Serum 20% and Peptoxyl Radiance Serum

- Choose products with proven, effective hydrators. Shea butter is always a favorite as are some natural, non-fragrant plant oils like jojoba, apricot kernel and sunflower seed oil. Mineral oil gets a bad wrap and shouldn’t. Although mineral oil isn‘t “green” (it’s not a renewable source) it’s a great moisturizing ingredient that creates a protective barrier on the skin. Mineral oil is a great option for most dry skin types, except those with congested skin. Scosh Peptoxyl Wrinkle Relaxing Cream

So remember, it’s not just about the creams and lotions you are applying, it’s about avoiding the behavior that will contribute to your already dry skin and applying a bit of science to your skincare choices. The result will be more beautiful, healthy looking skin.

“Botax” on Capitol Hill

Page 2045, SEC. 9017. EXCISE TAX ON ELECTIVE COSMETIC MEDICAL PROCEDURES. IRS Publication 502, "any procedure that is directed at improving the patient's appearance and does not meaningfully promote the proper function of the body or prevent or treat illness or diseases."

Did you know that the Senate’s Health Care bill had a proposed 5% tax on elective cosmetic surgery? Fillers, implants, reconstructions, teeth whitening and other aesthetic procedures. Dubbed the "Botax" on Capitol Hill, the tax on elective cosmetic surgery first appeared in November, compliments of Sen. Harry Reid, D. Nev. Estimations were that the tax would raise approximately $5.8 billion over 10 years. After a lobbying campaign by plastic surgeons, the AMA, and Allergan, Senate Democrats pulled it from the bill.

Caroline Van Hove, an Allergan spokeswoman, said the tax was discriminatory toward women and that it did nothing to reduce health care costs. "These are elective procedures that middle-class women are paying for out of their own pockets," she said.

While this tax may not have been on your radar, you should consider this - New Jersey adopted a 6% tax on elective medical procedures in 2004, and since the election of the tax the NJ Department of Taxation has experienced a 59% shortfall based on projected revenue estimates. In fact, the original sponsor of the 2004 bill, New Jersey Assemblyman Joseph Cryan, is leading efforts to repeal the tax.

In place of the “Botax”, a trip to the tanning salon would cost 10% more with the Tanning Bed tax, slated to start in July. Reid spokesperson Jim Manley cited studies linking tanning bed use to skin cancer and other risks. HOWEVER, the proposals don't call for a direct allocation of funds to skin cancer prevention.

Skin cancer is the most frequently diagnosed cancer in the United States, accounting for more than 1 million new cases annually and costing billions of dollars to detect and treat. The American Cancer Society estimates that skin cancer is also responsible for approximately 12,000 US deaths annually

Just this past July, the World Health Organization's International Agency for Research on Cancer confirmed that artificial tanning devices, similar to excessive sun exposure and cigarette smoking, belong in the highest category of potential cancer risk, "carcinogenic to humans."

As much as I personally and professionally detest tanning of any kind, I am worried that this is a slippery slope. Where will the service tax end? Can we really afford this type of tax? What about your other service related industries – hair, nails, massages, facials, and the pool boy? This is just wrong on so many levels.

“A New Year, A New You - Really?”

My dear friend and skincare guru, John Homer and I ruminated about the state of skincare for 2010 - products and practice. I begged him to do a blog as he is so passionate and eloquent on the subject. Thanks John and enjoy everybody!

It's only the first week in January and we are already seeing numerous ads for all the “supposedly” newer and better skin care products that will make us look fantastic in 2010. But what happened to all of those “new” products launched in 2009? Didn’t they work? Was there some miraculous skincare discovery in December, 2009 we are now just being told about? No. Although there are always a few great new products each year, there are also a lot of “new” poorly formulated, overly hyped products as well. Just because a skincare product is new does not make it the answer to all your skincare needs. So what’s the real secret for 2010? Its skincare basics. Let’s discuss, in order of importance;

1) Sunscreen: Is there a miracle ingredient that will help you ward off wrinkles, skin discolorations and even reduce sagging skin as you age? YES! It’s called SUNSCREEN. I know you have heard this over, and over (and over) again. But absolutely nothing else matters unless you wear a minimum of an SPF 15 (UVA/UVB) every day, rain or shine, summer or winter. Did you know that just 5 minutes of incidental sun a day can damage your skin? Walking to the mailbox or the sun through your car windows is enough to age your skin. If you do nothing else (and it’s never too late to start) protect your skin from the harmful and damaging rays of the sun that can breakdown collagen, discolor your skin and worse yet, cause cancer.

2) Cleansing: This is so basic we don’t even need to talk about it, right? Wrong! Cleansing your face is critical for skin health, especially when we are talking about makeup removal each night. Forget about all the ads telling you mineral makeup is so good for your skin you can sleep in it. Mineral makeup is great, but unless you are taking a disco nap and getting back up to go out in 30 minutes, wash your face before you go to bed. Cleanse with a non-drying, gentle cleanser morning and night to remove the dirt, excess oils, sunscreen and makeup so your skin has a chance to breathe and be healthy.

3) Moisturize & Repair: Most of us go immediately to this step when thinking about what our skin needs to look and feel better. Although important, cleansing our skin and then protecting it from the sun comes first. That said, using serums and moisturizers with peptides and antioxidants is critical. A new miracle ingredient grown high atop the Swiss Alps sounds new and sexy, but it has little benefit for your skin. Peptides are cell communicators, and they tell your skin cells to look and act more normal (read healthy). Antioxidants not only protect your skin from free radical damage but antioxidants worn under (or in) your sunscreen boost the effectiveness of the sunscreen as well as being photo protective. Vitamin C remains one of the best, if not the best, photo protective antioxidant as it protects you against the more harmful UVA (aging) sun rays.

4) Exfoliate: Exfoliating dead layers of skin stimulates new collagen production and helps the products you apply penetrate better for maximum results. Exfoliate your skin bi-weekly at home, preferably at night. Monthly in-office treatments like microdermabrasion or a chemical peel will boost results even further. “Microderm” at-home scrubs can be very effective, but they don’t come close to the professional results achieved with a real in-office microdermabrasion or chemical peel for deep exfoliation. Also, in-office treatments are only as good as your at-home care. Go back to steps one through three above, paying special attention to protecting your freshly exfoliated, highly vulnerable skin from the damaging effects of the sun.

Well, there you have it. Four easy steps to great skin care for 2010. If anything, the “new year, new you” skincare mantra should mean we simplify, and only use those products that we know are proven to be effective. Oh, and it wouldn’t hurt to check the expiration dates on your sunscreen and replace anything that’s expired right now. That’s a great idea!

Happy New Year, and Good Skin Health in 2010!

New Year Skincare Resolution

As we inch ever closer to the New Year I wanted to take a moment to remind all of my clients about the importance of quality home-care as a follow up to any Scosh treatment. Proper home-care products are a critical part of both achieving and maintaining the maximum results from any treatment you receive. Simply put, you are protecting your investment. And keep in mind, what you do away from me affects what happens when you are with me.

I expect my clients to experiment with other skincare brands, but please remember – the person behind the department store counter was hired because they can sell, NOT because they know anything about your skin. I mean really, are you going to trust your skin to part-time Christmas help?

Scosh Skincare’s therapeutic levels of ingredients, antioxidants and vitamins have been formulated specifically for post-treatment use, with many options for different skin needs. In fact I was extolling the virtues of ingredients such as resveratrol, peptides, ceramides, and antioxidants 10 years ago, long before they became the 'hot topics' they are today. I stay current with new formulas and ingredients by delving into research, asking questions, attending trade shows, trying new products, and interviewing new labs constantly.

My goal in the treatment room has always been to provide the most cost effective and time efficient options. I positioned my business model years ago to give clients ‘more bang for their buck’ by tailoring each treatment to my client's specific skin care needs. I don’t give shoulder massages, I don’t turn on the steam and then walk out of the treatment room. What I do is fix your skin. Period. It's all about personalizing the process, because just like skincare, not every treatment is for everyone. That said, designing an appropriate skincare protocol to follow post-treatment is also critical.

I do believe that I have an outstanding array of extremely effective Scosh products available for post-treatment care. I'm always happy to do a skincare consultation anytime to help you find a great routine to maximize the results of your treatment. So, let’s get together and review your skincare protocol for a new, more healthy looking you.

Next month I’m going to address basic skin care protocols for different skin types. Until then – wash your face twice a day and sunscreen sunscreen sunscreen (YES, even in winter!)

Pumpkin - is it a Peel or what?

There seems to be some confusion regarding all the autumn-inspired pumpkin peels out there, so I thought I’d try to clear up any confusion.

I love using pumpkin as a facial treatment. Pumpkin enzymes act like Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA’s), without the drying effects of an AHA glycolic peel, for instance. In other words, you get great cell turnover, accelerated exfoliation, and powerful nutrients and antioxidants to scavenge those pesky free-radicals – resulting in smoother, younger looking skin.

A “gentle exfoliation” is one that will usually not result in a visible sloughing of dead skin. However, results can be achieved from a physical exfoliant such as a light microdermabrasion, a scrub, or a chemical exfoliant - usually 5% AHA or less. These will diminish fine lines, but the results will not last as long as a medium to deep peel.

A “peel” would be a medium to deep exfoliation and will usually result in a visible sloughing of dead skin cells. Depending on skin type, the exfoliation process can be a light flaking of the skin, or a deeper “sheeting” of the skin, where large patches of dead cells will be shed. Peels can be performed through physical exfoliation (microdermabrasion) or chemical peels (higher concentrations of AHA 10%+, BHA, TCAs, Jessners, etc.), or a combination of the two.

We all react differently to products; what may be a light exfoliation to you could be a “peel” on someone else. In addition, if you do not peel or sheet it doesn’t mean something isn’t happening at the cellular level, where it counts.

Price isn’t necessarily your barometer either. Scosh Studio currently offers a 30 minute - 10% Pumpkin Peel for $35, Pumpkin Peel.

So, delight your senses and enjoy the bounty of this time of year!