Organic Skincare

I’ve gotten a few questions about Organic Skincare lately so, I thought I would do some research.

Did you know that The US Food and Drug Administration, FDA, does not require testing or certification of any beauty products? (re: last month’s blog about Mascara ads) Therefore, companies have more freedom when choosing ingredients, and those ingredients are not necessarily good for you.

Some products labeled organic by the USDA are more organic than others are. The USDA has set up different categories of organic products; a product that is made with 95% or more organic ingredients receives a USDA organic symbol, while a product made with more than 70% organic ingredients will say on the label that it is “made with organic ingredients.”

However, how many of those organic products are in your moisturizer? Not all organic products are equal. Products that claim to be organic may still contain ingredients that could cause a breakout, especially if you suffer from allergies. Think botanicals. They may smell nice but if you have allergies, buyer beware!

So when you are looking at organic skincare ask yourself organic what, organic how much?

How do Scosh products fit into all of this? Scosh Skincare is the cutting edge of cosmeceutical skin care. The effectiveness of the ingredients used depends on whether they are chirally correct. ‘kī-rul’ is Greek for hands. Every molecule found in nature is chiral. This is the delivery system. Chiral molecules are identical mirror images of each other, meaning they have a "left" and a "right" chemical orientation, much like our hands - think gloves. The skin is comprised of millions of chiral receptors, which dictate instructions to the cells. Only through receptors can the body access nutrients, drugs, and locally applied products. Applying the wrong chiral twin to the skin results in either poor response, irritation, or no effectiveness at all. For a product to be optimally effective, it must be received by a specific receptor, therefore chirally correct.

The Scosh philosophy is all about rejuvenating, repairing, and refining stressed, over-processed, dehydrated and problematic skin. Scosh Skincare has been formulated to be free from preservatives, synthetic colors, fragrances, cruelty free, and packaged in recyclable packaging.

Plastic Lashes? Yikes!

OK, so what’s the deal with all of these mascara print and TV ads lately? Do they really think we believe that those false eyelashes are mascara? It’s beyond exaggeration!

Some of the pictures are completely ridiculous. Honestly, who really wants their lashes to look like those uber theatrical plastic lashes I use to make up witches for Halloween? Even eyelash extensions don’t look this silly.

I was told many years ago, that it’s a common industry practice for advertisers, as long as they use the item they are advertising somewhere on the body. One makeup artist said the foundation she used on a models face in a foundation shoot wasn’t what was being advertised, but came from her kit instead. The advertised foundation however, was dabbed behind the ear so they could say they used it or the model was wearing it.

I did read that one mass market manufacturer was taken to task for this tactic and now must place a disclaimer in their ads.

You know I love makeup and skincare as much as the next girl but don’t even get me started on 12 year olds advertising eye cream or the hair-color-in-a-box celebrities!

My Chemical Peel Experience

A tale of do as I say, NOT as I do!

Day 1, Monday
My friend Diane, an aesthetic instructor, and I decided an anti-aging TCA Peel would be best for my skin. Perfect for hydrating my dry, sun damaged, peri-menopausal skin. This is not ‘your mother’s’ aggressive, 'under home-arrest', type peel. It is a kinder, gentler regeneration of new cells at a faster rate than what would normally occur as an adult.

First, she cleansed my skin, twice. Then prepped my skin with a lactic toner, asking if I felt any tingling on a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being worst. I felt a slight sensation, maybe a 1 or 2. We waited for the toner to dry and then started with 1 layer of Ultra Peel I, again asking my sensation on a 1 to 10 scale; I felt about a 3. We waited 3 minutes and she applied another layer, same 1 to 10 scale question; I felt slightly more tingling - about a 4. Waiting 3 more minutes, we decided to go for one more layer; 1 to 10 scale came in at about a 5 and that was it. After 3 minutes, she finished the peel off with a layer of Ultra II – a retinol treatment booster, then applied sunscreen and I was finished. My face looked like I used a bronzer and felt slightly tingly and tight, although not uncomfortable. The entire process took about 20 minutes, we were finished by noon. When I left for home I made sure to let the heat out of my car before jumping in, heat can do damage to the skin as well.

This peel should be kept on for at least 5 hours to let the skin process before removing and applying a hydrating balm (only). OR you can leave it on over night. I removed it at 5 hours with Scosh Cleanse and tepid water, patted dry, and generously applied a balm - looked pretty greasy!

Day 2, Tuesday
My skin felt very tight the next morning and I looked a bit puffy. No flaking or peeling. I washed my face with Scosh Cleanse and tepid water at the sink, patted dry and generously applied a balm and sunscreen. Kept the shower spray off my face, carefully washing and rinsing my hair in a tepid shower. Do NOT put your face under the warm shower spray for 5 days post. If in fact, if you can avoid washing your hair on day 2 even better.

Had clients all day so I also applied Scosh Oil Blotting Powder to control shine.

About 5 pm Tuesday (30 hours post peel), I started to feel like I was beginning to peel/ flake around the peri-oral area. Apparently, it is normal for this part of the peel to ‘release’ first as we use our mouth and nose so much throughout the day.

I washed my face at the sink that evening with Scosh Cleanse, patted dry and noticed that I was beginning to ‘sheet’. Rather large pieces of skin were peeling from the mouth, nasal, and cheek areas. Tempting as it was I did NOT peel, tug, or pull at these areas. Hyperpigmentation may result, damaging the skin. So, I applied more balm which made my face look greasy but not ‘peely’.

Day 3, Wednesday
I was sheeting and flaking in the morning. Washed my face with Scosh Cleanse and tepid water at the sink, patted dry and noticed flakes of skin in the wash bowl. Hmmm, kinda weird but funny at the same time! Generously applied balm and sunscreen. Lots of flaking throughout the day.

Home office day, so no powder. Just balm and sunscreen.

Washed my face at the sink with Scosh Cleanse and tepid water in the evening, patted dry, applying a generous amount of balm to stay hydrated.

Day 4, Thursday
I was surprised at how much of the flaking/peeling was gone. Except for the flaking on my forehead, eyebrows, and along the hairline my skin looked clear, tight, and nice.

Did the usual Scosh Cleanse, tried a serum this morning but if felt a bit tingly so I backed off. If it feels tingly, your skin is telling you something. Applied generous amounts of balm and sunscreen.

Put some oil blotting powder on and met my friend Dawn later that afternoon. She was surprised at the clarity of my skin just 3 days post peel.

Day 5, Friday
Then this is where I got cocky, making a HUGE mistake. Pay attention here, as it’s a do as I say NOT as I do moment.

I jumped in the shower without Scosh Cleanse. I decided to use a sample gel cleanser with itty bitty scrubbies in it. I thought would be fairly benign and I really wanted to get the flaking around my hairline. Big Big BIG mistake! I got out of the shower and my face was bright red, and felt warm to the touch. Scared the living heck out of me. I was completely panic stricken calling Diane and my friend Tracy telling them what a bonehead move I had just made and what the heck happened to my skin?

I had clients that morning, so I put on lots of balm and sunscreen, and oil blotting powder and headed off to the studio still feeling warm and looking bright red.

Diane called and talked me down, telling me to look at the ingredient list. Sure enough, half way down the list there it was…Retinyl Palmitate – Retin A – Vitamin A. Under normal circumstances a great cell turnover ingredient, in this case TOO much TOO soon (Maybe I should have made myself fill out the Chemical Peel Consultation Form.). About 5 hours later my skin started to calm down and all turned out OK. My skin looks and feels great and I’m very happy with the results.

BUT this is the perfect example of why you must follow the take home instructions, and use the post-skin care kit + shea butter balm for at least 10 days, twice a day, everyday post peel. Scrubs are NOT allowed no matter how much the flaking makes you crazy. It can absolutely do damage by hyperpigmenting the skin. I know better and I still was non-compliant. Do not follow my example!

Day 6 – 13
Skin looks terrific, with the hairline flakes taking the longest to release. About day 9 I felt really dry and started to flake ever so slightly again on my cheeks and forehead. Kind of a second peel it seemed. Hydrate made it unnoticeable and it was gone by day 11 leaving my skin very soft yet firm.

Day 14
I did a fruit enzyme peel as my final 3 part peel program. My skin is glowing! I’m really happy with the results.

Basic Skincare Protocol

Easy Steps to Anti-aging Skin care

Morning:
First > Cleanse or Vibran C Cleansing Scrub
Second > apply Peptoxyl Radiance Serum over entire face
Third > gently apply Peptoxyl Eye Treatment around both eyes from the outside of the eyes inward toward the nose in circular motions. (Any left over, apply to lips and neck)
Fourth > Peptoxyl Wrinkle Relaxing Cream moisturizer, over entire face, neck and decollette
Fifth > the most most important anti-aging product of all, Peptoxyl Protection spf 30 over entire face and neck. Don't forget the V-neck T-shirt area.
Last > be sure to take care of your lips with Liptoxyl, plumping, soothing and luscious!

Evening:
First > Cleanse or Vibran C Cleansing Scrub
Second > apply Peptoxyl Radiance Serum over entire face
Third > gently apply Peptoxyl Eye Treatment around both eyes from the outside of the eyes inward toward the nose in circular motions. (Any left over? Apply to lips and neck)
Fourth > Peptoxyl Wrinkle Relaxing Cream moisturizer, over entire face, neck and decollette
Fifth > plump your lips with Liptoxyl, soothing and luscious!

Microdermabrasion + Peels - how much is too much?

I am such a HUGE believer in microdermabrasion that I’ve built nearly my entire facial practice around it. I find it to be an extremely effective treatment for the modest amount of time spent in the facial room without, in most cases, extended periods of downtime.

As prevalent as it is, it’s hard to believe that microdermabrasion has only been in the United States for 10 years. When I first got my machine 9+ years ago, I was one of a handful of aestheticians with their own machine. Machines were found in Doctor’s offices, and even then they were few and far between. Finding reference to microdermabrasion in a facial protocol was pretty much non existent leaving me to write my own. However, microdermabrasion is now so established that frequently it is the first step in a treatment protocol.

Microdermabrasion is a natural way to evenly and safely exfoliate the skin. It transforms the skin’s appearance leaving it radiant and silky smooth while helping to minimize fine lines, acne scarring, sun damage, and hyperpigmentation. Microdermabrasion utilizes corundum powder crystals, the industry standard for skin resurfacing, to finely resurface the superficial layers of the skin, reduce imperfections and restore the skin’s natural vitality. As an anti-aging treatment it improves fibroblast activity which in turn stimulates collagen growth, increasing cell renewal which slows as we age. Microdermabrasion is a progressive, non-aggressive procedure usually done in a series of 6 to 10 treatments every 10 to 14 days, followed by maintenance every 8 to 10 weeks.
Lately, the combination of microdermabrasion and chemicals peels is seen more often in aesthetic practices and physician offices. While I believe that this application has its place, I also caution clients regarding this practice for a few reasons;

First, over-processed skin is not healthy skin. Pairing chemical peels with microdermabrasion, a mechanical peel, can be a fairly aggressive procedure as they are both skin resurfacing methods. Used together, they can potentially cause serious damage as it may be more invasive. I have personally seen some great results while doing this procedure, but there are risks involved. Recovery time after a ‘double peel’ means more downtime and a longer more serious home care practice. Advanced training is essential in this field.

Second and more importantly, as the client you must be 100% compliant when filling out the client consultation form. Without a complete and honest understanding of what my client is using we may get a different, not altogether happy, end-result. Protocols must be strictly adhered to with any client on prescription topicals such as Retin A and Differin.

Post care is imperative with microdermabrasion. Since I am exfoliating the top layer of the epidermis (stratum corneum), hydration and sun protection are essential. Microdermabrasion improves the absorption and penetration of serums and moisturizers much more effectively. You truly get more bang for your buck with your facial products after a microderm treatment. Replenish your skin with professional post-resurfacing skincare products formulated with therapeutic levels of antioxidants, nourishing vitamins, and skin-calming and healing ingredients. Do your best to avoid direct sunlight and if you plan on being outdoors, make sure you wear an appropriate broad-spectrum sunscreen and hat. Additionally, I encourage my clients to open their car door and let the heat out before climbing in as heat can also do damage.

Enjoy my package of 3 microdermabrasion treatments including the face, neck and décolleté for $150 at Scosh Makeup and Skincare Studio in Scottsdale; http://www.scoshskincare.com/ma.php

Free Radicals? Antioxidants? What the heck?

You see the words Free Radical and Antioxidant on just about every beauty magazine cover these days. We use them in daily conversations, but do we really understand what they mean?

The serious explanation of Free Radicals defines them as atoms or molecules in your body with an unpaired electron…making them highly unstable. Because electrons normally come in pairs, the free radicals collide with other molecules in an attempt to steal an electron, and may start a chain reaction, wreaking havoc on your DNA and cells and leading to all kinds of diseases.

The not so serious explanation is to think of them as an oxygen molecule gone wrong, a Free Radical Pac-Man (Ms. Pac-Man?) on the attack.

The more free radicals to which we are exposed, such as sun, smog, and cigarette smoke, the greater the chance free radicals can tinker with our bodies natural DNA makeup. When that occurs our body's organs, tissues, and cells are weakened. Some weakening is a natural part of the aging process; however, the introduction of more and more free radicals breaks down our body's natural ability to fight back the aging process and escalates it prematurely. And remember, the largest organ of the body is our skin!

Antioxidants on the other hand, are free radical scavengers, neutralizing them before they get a chance to do harm to your body. They get their name from their ability to inhibit oxidation.

There are lots of different substances we call antioxidants, including many vitamins and minerals. Of course, not all antioxidants are created equal, and some of the most powerful, polyphenol antioxidants, are found in great abundance in pomegranate juice, cranberries, and grapes. Red wine, chocolate, and green teas are wonderful alternative sources.

So, kick off those Jimmy Choo’s, indulge in a glass of red wine with a piece of dark chocolate and chase those free radicals away.

The antioxidant and vitamin-rich Scosh from the vine system has been designed to target premature aging, sun damage, problematic and over-processed skins with therapeutic levels of anti-oxidants, nourishing vitamins, skin-calming and healing ingredients. This advanced easy-to-use system is suitable for all skin types; http://www.scoshskincare.com/s_from_the_vine.php

The 5 Minute Makeup - a few quick tips to get you out of the house a bit faster

Oops! So you spent a bit more time on You Tube that you thought and you’re still in your pj’s and late for work? Never fear, here’s a few quick steps to put you in your car and on the way to making big bucks!

1. Cleanse and moisturize – don’t forget to prep your skin with a moisturizer and sunscreen before you apply your makeup. If you didn’t wash your makeup off from the night before, yuck! I’ve said it before, your makeup will only look as good as your skin.
2. Foundation and concealer - if you’re using a powdered foundation apply concealer first, if needed - under eyes, around nose, blemishes – then apply your powdered foundation to help set the concealer. BUT if you use a liquid or cream foundation apply concealer second so you don’t wipe it away when applying your foundation. Also, look for a cream to powder liquid foundation so you can skip a step here by not having to set your foundation with powder. And if you’re one of the lucky ones who doesn’t need foundation but could use a bit of concealer, apply and blend where needed. I’m a big believer in using a large brush to apply powder foundation and either a sponge or foundation brush for liquid/cream foundation. The less you have to wash your hands the more time you’ll save. Just make sure to wash your brushes often.
3. Blush – make a big smile and sweep a light rose blush over the apples of your cheeks.
4. Brows - fill in brows with a shadow or pencil just a shade or two lighter than your brow hair color. This is an optional step. If you’re running out of time or have thick colored brows or wear bangs, you can opt out here.
5. Shadow - a quick layer or wash of shadow on the lids is perfect for day wear. Try one of the new pastels for spring.
6. Liner – if you’re not a shadow wearer or just love liner take this time to line the top lash line with shadow or pencil.
7. Mascara – brush through the top lashes once or twice, for a fresh look.
8. Lips - lip gloss, lip shine, lipstick. One tip I have about lipstick is that some sort of pink looks good on almost everyone; think rose, or sheer pink, or warm pink or plum. Lip liner not necessary here.

Save a step, save some time!

And don't forget it's all about the tools. Scosh makeup brushes are the finest on the market. They're all the brushes that I use in my prokit and on set. Take a look here; http://www.scoshskincare.com/b_face.php